A superb Victorian emerald and diamond bangle

A superb Victorian emerald and diamond bangle, circa 1890, claw-set with a step-cut emerald weighing 5.66 carats, within a radiating cluster of circular-cut diamonds, mounted in silver and gold, detaching from the bangle to be worn as a pendant, total diamond weight approximately 10.00 carats, pendant length 3.9cm, bangle inner circumference 16.6cm


Accompanied by SSEF report number 125424, dated 21st November 2022, stating that the emerald weighing 5.669 carats is of Colombian origin, with no indications of clarity enhancement

Provenance: Lord Lucius O’Brien, 15^th Baron Inchiquin (1864-1929) and Ethel Lady Inchiquin, thence by descent

Baron Inchiquin is one of the oldest titles in the Peerage of Ireland. It was created in 1543 for Murrough O’Brien, Prince of Thormond who was descended from the great high king Brian Boru.

CONDITION REPORT

Overall in very good condition, with only minor wear. Detailed report below:

A superb emerald of excellent colour and saturation (SSEF ‘green of medium strong saturation’), stronger and more vivid in colour than the catalogue photography can convey. Generally in very good condition, with minor chips to crown facets, and one additional minor chip to one corner, hidden by claw when in setting, and areas of minor abrasions to facet edges consistent with age and occasional wear. The stone appears clean, with few obvious inclusions – the most obvious is a line of fluid-filled inclusions running diagonally from the edge of the table to the girdle on one side, which is only visible at certain angles, and still a minor inclusion overall. Where the inclusions are surface-reaching, the fissures are insignificant and only visible under close magnification. Overall the stone is exceptionally clean and attractive, with a well-proportioned cut.

SSEF states ‘No indications of clarity modification in fissures at the time of testing’, in their report dated to November 2022. Please note that according to LMHC standards (used by SSEF and several other major laboratories), this prestigious clarity grade can encompass a very small amount of remaining oil residue, which is possible in historic stones such as the present lot.

The diamonds are well-matched and bright, totalling approximately 10.00 carats. In our specialists’ opinion, the diamonds are approximately as follows, proceeding clockwise from the fixed pendant loop: 1.60cts, H/I SI2; 0.90cts, G/H SI (abraded girdle); 1.30cts H/I SI1/2; 0.95 H/I SI1/2; 1.70cts H/I VS; 1.10cts H/I, SI2; 1.25cts G/H I1 (small black mark just on table) 0.85cts, H/I SI2, with mostly medium fluorescence.

Settings secure, claws in good condition. One claw to one outer diamond bent outwards and away from the diamond, visible in the catalogue image, which would benefit from a jeweller’s attention. The central element detaching and reattaching to the bangle securely. The bangle is in good condition, closing securely. Please note that the date of the jewel is circa 1890, and not as stated in the print catalogue. Gross weight of central element 13.9 grams, of bangle 22 grams.